Ladies and gentlemen! Pack your bags, grab your sunscreen and let’s head to Puerto Escondido! I know you might be thinking, “Oh, just another beach town,” but trust me, this place will knock your flip-flops off. The beaches are so beautiful, you’ll feel like you’re in a coconut-scented dream. And the nightlife? Let’s just say, I planned to stay for 5 days and ended up staying for 2 and a half weeks. I couldn’t tear myself away from the amazing vibe and energy of the town. So come join me in this tropical paradise where the sun never stops shining, the waves never stop rolling, and the party never stops.
Table of Contents
- Hurricane in Mazunte
- How to get to Puerto Escondido
- Where to stay in Puerto Escondido
- What to do in Puerto Escondido
- Where to Next?
Hurricane in Mazunte
My original plan was to spend a few days in Mazunte and Zipolite before heading to Puerto Escondido. Unfortunately, that didn’t happen. What did happen was Hurricane Agatha.
From San Jose del Pacifico, I took the Lineas Unidas shuttle bus to Zipolite. I had not booked anything in advance as I had no decent service, so my plan was to arrive there and find a place to stay on the spot. This was also the same time I found out that there was a hurricane approaching. Spending a few days without any cell service can really keep you in the dark. 🙁 Nonetheless, I managed to find a hotel to share with some friends I was traveling with.
We had only booked for one night and thank God we did, because the next day everyone from the hotel and the nearby restaurants was telling us to go to higher ground. So we finally made the decision to move to Puerto Escondido, which was at higher ground, and hopefully ride out the hurricane there.
During the hurricane
I stayed at Puerto Dreams during the hurricane and it was probably the best decision we made. I stayed at Apartments Tranquilo H which is still a part of Puerto Dreams but a different building around the corner form the main building. We were allowed to walk between the two hostels with no problems. Both buildings were multiple stories and my room was on the second floor. There was also a covered rooftop lounge area where I spent the majority of the time during the hurricane.
Before the hurricane was projected to hit, I went to the local grocery store and got a whole bunch of groceries in case we were flooded in (luckily, this did not happen). Both buildings had a decent sized kitchen, making it easy for multiple people to cook at once. The lounge area, which also had a bar, at the main Puerto Dreams hostel was definitely a lot nicer. The lounge area at Apartments Tranquilo H was really just a couple hammocks and a big table.
The hurricane wasn’t as bad in Puerto Escondido, however, it was terrible in Mazunte and Zipolite. In Puerto Escondido, we got some rain and wind. No power outages, luckily. And also little to no flooding on the streets. We even saw a nice sunset that same evening. The next day was actually pretty nice and I didn’t have to worry about any hurricane issues after.
How to get to Puerto Escondido
From Mazunte/Zipolite
From Zipolite, my new friends and I walked about 10 minutes to the main road and took a colectivo for 10 pesos to San Antonio. Then from there, we caught a shuttle bus that took us straight to Puerto Escondido. There is an ADO bus that usually operates this route, however, since there was a hurricane on the way we had to find different options. I’ve heard the ADO bus makes an unofficial stop at San Antonio and from there you can take a taxi or colectivo to Mazunte or Zipolite.
From San Jose del Pacifico
Take the Lineas Unidas bus to Pochutla and from there take an ADO bus to Puerto Escondido. Not sure about costs, since this is not the route I took.
From Oaxaca City
The ADO bus does go from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido, but I’ve heard the route is very windy with many twists and turns, and causes carsickness.
Where to stay in Puerto Escondido
I had planned to spend only 5 days in Puerto Escondido but actually ended up staying 2 and a half weeks. It was a combination of the beach, the people that I met, and the incredibly chill vibe that kept me here. Because I had only planned for 5 days, and there was a hurricane that slightly shifted my plans, I had to hop around from hostel to hostel depending on availability. I stayed in the main city area for some time, and also stayed in the nieghborhood of La Punta. Here is a complete list of each hostel I stayed at and my experience staying there:
La Punta
- Casa Punta – My all time favorite hostel in Puerto Escondido. This hostel is located outside of the main Puerto Escondido city and is in a neighborhood called La Punta Zicatela, where there is supposedly really great surfing. The hostel itself is small. There’s a spacious kitchen but there are only 2 dorm rooms: one with 8 beds and the other with 4 beds. There is one bathroom outside for the 8 bed dorm, and an ensuite for the 4 bed dorm. There are also several private rooms with bathrooms. I stayed in the 8 bed dorm in June and it got crowded, HOT and there is no air conditioning although each bed has a fan which I would advise against using. However, I loved the vibe at the hostel, there were very chill people and staff, and the neighborhood itself was nice. Very expat, surfer vibe, but the area is much more expensive than Puerto Escondido city.
- Hostal Akumal – After my quick trip to Chacahua, I booked a few nights here due to limited availability for other places. I booked a private room here I was sharing with 2 other girls I was traveling with. The room was nice (although with no fans or air conditioning) and had a bathroom, however, the shower pressure was horrible. I ended up using the outdoor shower on the first floor. There is also a small breakfast cafe on the first floor along with plenty of lounging area on the first floor and the rooftop. This is right across the street from Casa Punta but definitely not as social as Casa Punta.
- Hostal La Palmera Rosa – It was my last night in Puerto and everything was booked out so I managed to find this hidden gem on booking.com. This is a small, low key hostel in La Punta. I stayed in one of the dorm rooms and this was my first time seeing a 3 bed bunk bed. Luckily, I did not have to sleep on the third bed on the very top. The hostel was very calm and quiet. I barely saw anyone out other than at breakfast. I would recommend this hostel if you’re looking for some time for yourself. It was very clean and comfortable, and equipped with a nice kitchen.
Puerto Escondido City
- Apartments Tranquilo H – first hostel I stayed at in Puerto Escondido during Hurricane Agatha that is an extension of Puerto Dreams. Rooms and bathrooms were clean. Kitchen was well equipped. The only lounge/hangout area is a large table and some hammocks on the roof, otherwise not too many other spots to socialize. But then again, I could always go to Puerto Dreams located around the corner to do that.
- Puerto Dreams – I didn’t officially stay here but I did see all the common areas. The rooftop is very cozy with an inviting lounge area and bar. The kitchen is very nice and well equipped. Most of the hostel events are held in this building and it does have a more social vibe compared to Apartments Tranquilo H.
- Tower Bridge – Casa Punta gets booked out very quickly so I had to find another hostel to stay at and landed at Tower Bridge. This may have been the cheapest place to stay at in Puerto Escondido, but it was also pretty nice. The 8 bed dorm I stayed in was very spacious and had a bathroom of its own. There is a pool, a decent sized kitchen, a bar and areas to hang out. This was probably the most social hostel I stayed at in Puerto Escondido, although it is a bit far from everything (beach, main town, bars/clubs) so you may need to walk a bit or call a taxi.
- Nopalero – Once Tower Bridge got booked up I had to move once again, and this time I moved nearby to Nopalero hostel. This was a nice break away from being social, as this hostel was not as social as the others I had stayed at. There is air conditioning in the rooms which helped me get a really good nights sleep. The kitchen is spacious, there’s a bar and table area, and a pool.
What to do in Puerto Escondido
After spending 2 and a half weeks here, I surprisingly didn’t do as much as I thought I would have. Maybe because the vibe of this whole area was very chill so most of what I did was relax or eat. Regardless, Puerto Escondido has something to do for everyone, from surfing to enjoying the city to hiking, there are many options everywhere. Here are a few of my highlights during my time in Puerto Escondido:
Visit the beaches!
Puerto Escondido has the prettiest beaches and some are great for surfing.
Near the city
- Playa Carrizalillo was my favorite and also the same beach I had my surfing lessons. It’s a nice beach for beginners for surfing as the waves are a bit calmer compared to the other beaches. Getting here requires a bit of walking from the colectivo stop or a taxi, but nonetheless this beach is beautiful and I highly recommend a visit.
- Playa Coral is right next to Carrizalillo but you can’t walk there from Carrizalillo. This beach is blocked off by a hotel that you will have to pay 50 pesos to enter. They do give you a hamburger and water included in the price. Otherwise, you can walk to Playa Coral from Playa Bacocho, which is a very long walk but will definitely help you save some money. This is a very quiet and beautiful beach (beautiful only if you ignore the old waterpark by the hotel).
- Playa Bacocho is a long stretch of beach where they have the baby sea turtle release every day at 5pm. There are some areas that are blocked off because it’s a turtle nesting area. You can walk between Playa Coral and Playa Bacocho by the beach, but you’ll have to pass over a rocky area which isn’t too hard if you’re confident where you are stepping.
- Playa Manzanillo is another one of my favorite beaches, but it does get crowded during certain times of the day. Puerto Angelito is right next door, but there was less shade and anchored boats near the beach, so Playa Manzanillo was a nicer option for relaxing and swimming.
Closer to La Punta
- Playa Zicatela is a loooong stretch of beach that is great for surfing, not so much for swimming. I am not nearly a good enough of a surfer to surf there, but I did see quite a few surfers out every time I visited this beach. There is no shade here as it is an open beach, but it is right near many restaurants, cafes, and the clubs.
- Playa Punta is the PERFECT beach to watch sunset. It is almost a ritual for everyone in the town to come out to this beach to watch sunset, and oh man, it did not disappoint. I caught some of the most beautiful sunsets here, even when it is cloudy the sky still lights up and its amazing to see. This is also another awesome spot for surfing, but not the best for swimming.
Take surfing lessons
I booked surf lessons through my hostel, Casa Punta. It cost about 400 pesos for one 2 hour group lesson including board and rash guard. The lessons were with a company located right along the main road of La Punta, less than a 5 minute walk from Casa Punta. They would tell us the exact time to meet when we sign up with them. They take cash only and incase you don’t have cash they will drive you to an ATM right after the lesson. I decided to take 2 lessons with them and we met at the surf shop every morning. They would drive us to Playa Carrizalillo, the best spot for beginners, and from there we would have to carry our foam boards to the beach (annoying walk as we had to go down stairs). The lesson was great and I really felt myself improving by the second day.
Release baby sea turtles
There was a lot of debate on how ethical this was, but after hearing more information about the organization I ultimately decided to support their cause and help the chances of sea turtles survival. Everyday at 5pm on Playa Bacocho, they have baby sea turtle releases. If you see a crowd on the beach at this time, this is what it’s for. You pay 100 pesos and get a coconut shell to hold the baby sea turtle. Many of them are squirming and ready to run to the ocean so its hard to keep them in the coconut, but once you release them they’re off! It’s amazing to see them off into the ocean where they will hopefully have a better chance of survival.
Eat amazing food every day
After coming from Oaxaca city, a city rich in gastronomy, I really didn’t expect to experience nearly half as much from Puerto Escondido. But how wrong I was! The food here was delicious that I’m pretty sure it was magic, like Harry Potter level of magic. Here are a few spots you MUST try in Puerto Escondido:
- Fish Shack La Punta – only the BEST fish tacos I have ever had. I only went here atleast once a day almost every day of my stay. I highly recommend getting the coco fried shrimp tacos, they are the absolute BEST and just thinking about them right now is making my mouth water.
- Lychee – Located in La Punta, this Thai restaurant is a little bit of a splurge for your backpacker budget (honestly, everything in La Punta is) but it is well worth it! The pad thai was delicious and their cocktails are very tasty. If I wasn’t traveling on a budget, I’d probably come back here.
- Il Salento – Also located in La Punta and out of the budget backpacker range, this pizza place was my go-to spot whenever I wanted something tasty and filling. They have a wide variety of pizzas and offer them in personal size.
- Elephant Garden – A cute brunch spot right near Playa Zicatela. The bowls are delicious and the ambience of the place let’s you know that you are, indeed, in a tropical place.
- Café Botánico – Nice spot for breakfast in the city. The smoothies are pretty good and they have a good variety of baked goods.
- Spirulina – Right by the beach near Zicatela, this restaurant is great for any meal. The smoothie options are incredible and the food options are all delicious. However, this may be outside the budget backpacker price range.
- Comedor Económico Lesly – Nearby the city area, I stumbled across this hole-in-the-wall joint when I was dropping off my laundry. The place doesn’t exactly look inviting but in this case, looks can be deceiving. The food was FANTASTIC, and the prices are very low and budget friendly. I originally ordered a torta, but then I saw this old lady eating this delicious looking chicken with curry and rice so I ordered that to go. Not quite sure what I really ordered, but it was amazingly delicious and the chicken was cooked in similar spices I’m used to from eating Indian cuisine. They also gave me a huuuge glass of fruit juice, not sure which fruit, but it was very sweet and delicious. I genuinely felt like I was eating in a locals home (which I might have been) as the server and the cook were incredibly warm and inviting.
Watch sunset every day
Sunsets here are absolutely beautiful. There are many spots around Puerto Escondido to see sunset, but my absolute favorite is at Playa Punta where the vibe is great and the view is amazing. Another one of my favorite spots is the cliffs at Mirador Las Tortugas. Here it can get a bit crowded and dangerous so be wary. Sunset is great from really anywhere in Puerto Escondido, so make sure you try to catch it as often as possible.
Experience the nightlife
The nightlife in Puerto Escondido is a lot of fun. Most of the clubs are in Zicatela lined up on the beach. Usually there is one club that everyone goes to each day. The hostels will probably what the most poppin’ place is but here is a list below:
- Cactus. Electronic/dance music and a venue that opens up to the beach.
- Xcaanda. I had the most fun here! It opens up to the beach and there’s a variety of music but mostly reggaeton.
- Hucanii. A restaurant turned into a fun beach party in La Punta.
- Chula. Another beach party vibe spot that is poppin’ most weekdays. This is a good go-to spot if you’re not feeling any other places because you’re almost guaranteed to have fun.
- Mar & Wanna. Right across from Cactus and a little bit more expensive than other places in the area. Usually busier on the weekends and a lot of fun.
- Congo Bar, Juana Mezcala, Mombasa, Piedra de la Iguana, and Cañabrava are a few other spots that I’ve heard good things about but have yet to visit.
Visit Chacahua! (MUST DO)
Saved the best for last! Chacahua is a super laidback island lagoon that will meet all your relaxation needs. A nice place to unplug from the hustle and bustle of your daily life and take some much needed rejuvenation at this beachside paradise. I tell you all about it in my blog post here!
Where to Next?
By the time my 2 and a half weeks in Puerto Escondido were coming to an end, I felt like I spent half a lifetime there. With all the things I had done each day during my stay, I realized time does run a lot faster while you’re traveling. I was sad to leave, but also excited to move on to my next spot, Huatulco, a beach vacation area not too far from Puerto Escondido that is well known to the locals and Canadians. Join my adventure as I take you through a snorkeler’s paradise!