La Guajira – Colombia’s hidden gem on the Northern Caribbean coast. A region that is often overlooked by travelers and tourists alike. But a region rich in history, life, and beauty. For those looking for adventure in stunning landscapes and a land less touched, this is the perfect trip for you. This is where the arid desert meets the vibrant blue sea, a striking contrast that is only a marvel to behold. In this guide I’ll describe my adventures in Guajira and how I came to travel this little known paradise in Colombia.
Table of Contents
- La Guajira Tour or on your own?
- Preparation: What to Know Before Your Guajira Trip
- Day 1: Palomino to Cabo de la Vela
- Day 2: An Epic Journey to Punta Gallinas
- Day 3: Heading Back to Palomino
- La Guajira Tour Thoughts
La Guajira Tour or on your own?
After doing my research and asking other travelers who had been to La Guajira, I decided the best and easiest way to explore this area is through a tour. Now I know what you’re thinking, I’m not a fan of tours either. But I did hear about how difficult it may be to find transportation to certain points of interest. I compared how cost effective doing this on my own would be versus if I just booked a tour. It turns out to be around the same price, but with the tours it is much less hassle and planning. Although tour are on a strict schedule, I found that the time I did spend in each spot was sufficient.
Cabo de la Vela Tours
I started my journey by booking a 3 day, 2 night tour through Cabo de la Vela Tours located in Riohacha. The tour includes everything from transportation, accomodation, and meals for the entire duration. It does not include water (which you will need a lot of) or the entry fee to the Manaure salt flats. The tour costs 600k COP. However, I needed pickup from Palomino to Riohacha which cost an extra 60k COP, making my total for the tour 660k COP.
To book the tour I contacted the phone number on the Cabo de la Vela Tour Facebook page through Whatsapp and was able to book everything on Whatsapp. I paid in cash when I arrived in their office in Riohacha on the first day.
I highly recommend booking Cabo de la Vela Tours. Not only did I have a great experience with them, but the cost of the tour was much cheaper than other tours I found online. From pick up in Riohacha to driving us all over La Guajira, our driver was friendly and informative. All the accomodations and places for food were clean, comfortable and delicious. Our driver, as well as most people in my tour group, only spoke Spanish, which was a great way for me to practice the language. This tour was a great way to see the main highlights of what the region has to offer, I can’t recommend it enough.
Preparation: What to Know Before Your Guajira Trip
About La Guajira
The region of La Guajira is home to indigenous people called the Wayuu. The Wayuu have been living on this land for hundreds of years, resisting Spanish colonization and now living as part of Colombia. Due to the exploitation of natural resources in the area, climate change and the government’s abandonment along with the natural difficulties of living in the desert, life in Guajira is tough to say the least. This is one of the poorest areas of Colombia that also has poor access to food, drinking water, and medical services. This is one thing to keep in mind while traveling through the area.
Roadblocks in Guajira
While driving through la Guajira, I passed several roadblocks. And several is an understatement. The roadblocks were usually simple rope or bike chains held across the road by locals, often children. They are asking for a snack or water in exchange for letting us pass. My tour group came prepared with bags of water, coffee, and cookies. Our driver would hand them out during the roadblocks. Many times our driver would also drive right through the roadblocks, not giving them anything, which was so heart breaking to see when the small children start running behind your car.
Seeing the roadblocks, and the way the Wayuu live was very eye opening and offered a different perspective. As a tourist in Guajira, I was supplied with ample resources and comfort for my stay. For this reason I often felt guilty and ashamed for even traveling La Guajira. From talking to a few of the locals working in the hotels I stayed in, I learned that they all would love to have more tourists. Because more tourists means more money for them. It also means more snacks and goodies for those holding the roadblocks. While this seems like a short term solution, there must be a long term plan for this region that I only hope the people and government of Colombia can provide.
What to bring to La Guajira Tour
Be sure to pack light and only bring a day pack. There is not much room in the car, and you also don’t need much for the tour. Be sure to bring plenty of cash and plenty of water. I mean PLENTY of water, because water is expensive and you will drink much more water than you originally think. At night, the temperature cools down a bit so bring a sweater just in case, especially if you are sleeping in a hammock.
The driver will stop at a convience store right before you head into the heart of La Guajira. Here you will pick up small snacks and water for the roadblocks. Along with anything else you need for yourself.
Day 1: Palomino to Cabo de la Vela
Check out this Tiktok for a quick recap of Day 1 of my Guajira tour.
Pick up in Palomino
My journey began at 6:30am by getting picked up in a colectivo at my hostel in Palomino. These shared vehicles are common in the region, but be prepared to wait for other passengers before heading to Riohacha. My colectivo didn’t actually leave Palomino until almost 7am.
Upon reaching Riohacha, I was dropped off at the Cabo de la Vela Tours’ office. Here I paid the cost of the tour and met the other traveler’s who would be in my tour group. In total it was 6 of us stuffed into a 7 seater SUV along with our bags and supplies for the hotels we are staying at. It was comfortable but quite cramped. But don’t worry, by the time we reached our accomodation for the night, much of the supplies were removed making more space for us.
First stop in Salinas de Manaure
The first stop on my journey was Salinas de Manaure. I was required to pay a 3000 COP entry fee, which is not included in the tour package. This visit offered insights into the salt-making process and even the chance to try a salt and passionfruit scrub on my hands. All in all the entire tour took about 20 minutes including time for photos. While Salinas de Manaure might not be the highlight of the trip, it’s worth a visit if you’re genuinely interested in exploring salt flats.
Picking up gifts for roadblocks
Continuing our journey, we drove an hour until our driver made a stop at a local convienence store. Here, we were to purchase gifts for the indigenous communities we will encounter at roadblocks along the way. I’m not sure where exactly we stopped but there were a few other tour groups that had arrived a few minutes before us. The entire area around the store was incredibly chaotic with local vendors trying to sell you their goods, local children tugging at your sleeves asking for money, and everyone else just staring at you. But as foreigners I guess this should be expected. We picked up packs of water, coffee, and cookies to distribute at the roadblocks and went on our way.
Drive to Cabo de la Vela
As we drove further into the desert, we got off the paved asphalt road onto a dirt and sand road. There are no road signs and a million tracks across the desert making it very confusing for an outsider to understand which direction to go. Our driver had been doing these tours for several years now and knew exactly where he was going, at least most times. Driving up here on your own will be difficult especially when it comes to the roadblocks.
It was interesting to see how our driver managed the roadblocks. At times, he drove through without stopping, leaving my tour group curious and heartbroken seeing sad children. However, our driver later explained to us that he is saving most of the gifts for the drive to Punta Gallinas, as this stretch has multiple consecutive roadblocks.
After about two hours on the road, we arrived in Cabo de la Vela and went straight to our accommodation for the night. We stayed at Rancheria-Hotel Cabo Playa, a bit outside the main town but featuring a private beach. My tour group had the place all to ourselves, creating a tranquil atmosphere where we could freely explore the property. Here, we enjoyed lunch, typically consisting of a choice between chicken, beef, or fish with rice and salad. It was absolutely delicious and very filling. But be warned, this will be the meal for every lunch and dinner on the tour so it may get old real quick.
Check out my tour of Rancheria-Hotel Cabo Playa on TikTok!
Exploring Cabo de la Vela surrounding area
Shortly after lunch, we visited Playa Arcoiris, a breathtaking viewpoint where the desert cliffs meet the blue ocean, offering fantastic photo opportunities. The landscape was so beautiful it was hard to convince myself that this was actually real.
We then took a short drive to Cerro El Pilon de Azucar. There is a quick and not overly strenuous hike to the highest point. Once at the top, the strong winds at the summit made the experience a little more thrilling. The wild views of the ocean and cliffs are simply spectacular. This could be a great sunset spot if you are ok with the strong winds.
We then headed to Playa Ojo de Agua, a calm beach with cool water. This was the perfect spot for taking a dip and enjoying the scenery. Here, I got to know the other people in my tour group connecting on our unique travel adventures and their curiousity on life outside of Colombia, as the rest of my tour group was Colombian.
As the day got closer to sunset, we drove to the lighthouse of Cabo de la Vela to watch the sun go down. At this point, we had been seeing several other tour groups throughout our day. Which makes me believe that most tour agencies probably have the same itinerary when it comes to the 3 day Guajira tour.
We sat by the lighthouse for a little less than an hour and watched the sunset. Then saw the best part – the sky changing colors from a vibrant cotton candy to a baby pink. It was quite windy by the lighthouse, but for some reason it didn’t feel as chilly as I thought it would. The temperature was very comfortable throughout the entire trip.
Night at Rancheria-Hotel Cabo Playa
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to the hotel for dinner. Dinner was the same meat and rice dishes we’d enjoyed earlier in the day. Our hammocks were prepared with blankets by the time we were done with dinner. The hammocks were incredibly comfortable and added to the desert experience.
While Cabo de la Vela is remote, it’s worth noting that electricity is available for only a few hours, typically until around 9:30 PM. I made sure to charge my devices as soon as I arrived. Due to the water shortage, showers at Rancheria-Hotel Cabo Playa consist of one large bucket of water that I poured on myself. The hotel offers one bucket per person, which is actually more than enough.
Lights went out at 9:30 PM, immersing us in complete darkness. This proved to be the perfect setting for stargazing. The absence of light pollution allowed us to see almost the entire galaxy. We laid out on the chairs by the beach in complete awe of what we were able to see. Then eventually went to bed in our hammocks.
Day 2: An Epic Journey to Punta Gallinas
Watch this Tiktok for a recap of Day 2 of the Guajira tour.
Roadblocks and more roadblocks
Day two began early, with us waking up around 6:00 AM and having breakfast by 6:30 AM. Breakfast consisted of arepas with coffee and hot chocolate.
We left the hotel around 7:30 AM, and began the lengthy journey to Punta Gallinas. Our driver had mentioned that he was purposefully saving most of our gifts for the roadblocks for this part of the trip. However, he occasionally still drove through some of the roadblocks. As heartbreaking as it was seeing this, I’m sure he had his reasons. In some instances, the locals might request money instead of gifts. Most of the time, we managed to provide them with two gifts instead of just one. But there was a particular case where an elderly man insisted on receiving 3000 pesos instead and would not let us pass without paying.
As we continued, we made a stop at street artisanal shop that specialized in woven bags typically made by the Wayuu women. The location of this street vendor was rather surprising as it felt like it was in the middle of the desert. Nonetheless, it was a great spot for photo opportunities and a chance to admire local craftsmanship.
Meat and rice for lunch (again)
We drove through the desert for another hour for lunch near Bahia Honda. Before enjoying our meal, we spent time exploring the area and taking a refreshing swim at the nearby beach. The beach was very calm and filled with beautiful shells. Lunch was the usual Colombian fare, but it was incredibly generous in portions. I felt full and satisified by the end of it.
Dunas de Taroa and sandboarding
We drove through the San Jose Bahia de Honda desert and finally arrived at the incredible Taroa Sand Dunes. Here, we had the option to book ATVs, or go sandboarding. Our group chose sandboarding, which cost 80,000 COP for one hour for the entire group, roughly 13,000 COP per person. For sandboarding, I would recommend wearing a bathing suit, as the bottom of the dune leads to the ocean. And definitely come prepared with a hat, sunglasses and plenty of sunscreen. Bring a water bottle because you’ll need to stay hydrated.
Sandboarding is a blast. Gliding down the dune is always fun, climbing back up with the board is less fun. After 2 runs I was done and decided to enjoy the ocean. The landscape here is absolutely stunning. The desert sand dunes meeting the vibrant blue ocean is something out of a dream. We spent a couple of hours here swimming and capturing stunning desert photos. This is the northernmost point in South America.
Sunset in Punta Gallinas
We made our way to the Punta Gallinas lighthouse. There was a graffitied structure right next to the lighthouse which made for great photo ops. The beach was rocky with interestingly formed rock structures. It was a bit windy, but not uncomfortably cold. The view was nothing short of spectacular. Sunset was just as stunning as it was the day before. The light show in the sky after sunset was even more beautiful.
Night in Punta Gallinas
We eventually made our way to Hospedaje Alexandra, our accomodation for the night. It seemed like this was the accomodation of choice by most tour agencies as there were several other tour groups here along with us. The bathrooms were standard, however, they used rainwater instead of freshwater for the showers and sinks. Due to the drought and being in the desert, this is just something to get used to.
Dinner consisted of a typical Colombian meal, and electricity was available throughout the night with plenty of outlets to charge your devices. Once again, we slept in comfortable hammocks with blankets, ensuring a peaceful night’s rest without getting too cold.
Day 3: Heading Back to Palomino
Another Tiktok recap for the third and last day of the Guajira tour.
Last breakfast and desert views
On the final day of our La Guajira adventure, we woke up early for breakfast at the Hospedaje Alexandra. Breakfast consisted of arepas and coffee with milk.
We left the hotel by 7:30 AM, and made a stop at Mirador de Casares. This viewpoint appeared quite dry when I visited. Possibly due to the ongoing drought in the region and climate change. Nevertheless, it still offered a nice view of the desert.
Drive to Uribia and Lunch
The drive back was quite interesting. We got caught in what looked like a sandstorm. The visibility was nearly zero and I’m not even sure how the driver was still able to drive. I was just glad that I wasn’t the one driving.
We made it to Uribia where we enjoyed a delicious lunch at Restaurante Donde Alvaro. Once again we had a basic Colombian meal, but this time with agua panela, lentils, and sweet plantains. It was a satisfying and absolutely delicious. After lunch, we walked around the main square and looked at some of the artisanal goods. We eventually made our way back the car and began the journey back to Riohacha.
Back to Riohacha and then Palomino
We got dropped off near the office in Riohacha and said our godbyes. It’s incredibly how over only 3 days you can build such a close connection with people who were once complete strangers. I then took a colectivo back to Palomino.
La Guajira Tour Thoughts
My journey to La Guajira was nothing short of incredible. Driving through the desert, interacting with the locals, and taking in the stunning landscapes is only a quick summary of what I experienced in La Guajira. The emotions I went through while driving through the roadblocks, seeing the way the Wayuu live, and how neglected they must feel by their own government to not have basic necessities for survival was truly heartbreaking. I can only hope that by writing this on my blog will gain more exposure to the region of Guajira and further inspire other travelers to visit this region and contribute to their local economy.
With the right preparations and an open spirit, you can discover the natural beauty, rich culture, and unforgettable experiences that this unique region has to offer. You will surely leave with incredible memories and a profound appreciation for the diverse landscapes and communities of Colombia. When exploring Colombia’s places to visit, whether you’re backpacking Colombia or seeking thrilling things to do in Colombia, consider a journey to La Guajira for an unforgettable experience you’ll cherish forever.
This post contains affiliate links where I may earn a commission on any purchases made using these links.
Learning about the roadblocks was eye-opening to me. I truly hope that the government of Colombia can figure something out. Sandboarding sounds like so much fun!
La Guajira really is Colombia’s hidden gem on the Northern Caribbean coast! The beaches are gorgeous and sandboarding would be so much fun. So sad to learn about the roadblocks.
What a beautiful landscape! I hope the indigenous communities can receive the support they need from the government, tour companies and NGOs to create a sustainable tourism industry!
This looks unbelievably beautiful – I love off the beaten path spots like these
La Guajira looks beautiful. But learning about the road blocks was heartbreaking.
Pingback:The Most Beautiful Towns in Colombia: Bloggers' List in 2024